Cheap airline tickets are so tempting because you don't think about getting up at 4am to catch the early train to make your flight. It seems great while booking the trip months in advance, but when you are surrounded by tranquilized travelers and drunks, hours before the sun comes up, you begin to question the bargain. After shaking the sleep from our eyes, we were excited at the prospect of being greeted by the warm sunshine of a Mediterranean climate. The queue for the security gate in London rivaled a commuter train in length and passenger density. Through the chaos, Emily was able to dive into the bookstore and purchase Harry Potter's latest offering and never loose sight of me. Upon our arrival into the city of Split, everything was different. It is comforting on so many levels to leave a megalopolis like London and be in a place where you can de-plane, watch your luggage get drop-kicked into a truck, get your passport stamped and claim your beaten baggage all within a 180 degree sweep of the eyes. And it was legitimately warm there! We were immediately hit by a wave of heat and humidity that we thought only existed in memories from long ago. The previous night in London was spent with a scarf (for her) and a jacket to fend off the August chill.The drive from the airport offered up some stark landscape and realistic "not in Kansas anymore" impressions. The coastal mountains were higher and dryer than I had expected. Nothing more than shrubs and olive trees grew from this arid soil. Cinder block houses dominated the horizon, neatly camouflaged with bogonvilla and brilliant blue shutters.
At the heart of Split lies the Roman palace of Diocletian (AD 245-313). It seems persecuting Christians was exhausting work, for the 'retired' emperor Diocletian built a large and cozy palace here to ruminate and relax. In the subsequent centuries it devolved into a sort of ancient time share for the leaders of the crumbling Roman Empire. The imposing walls are 2 meters thick and 25 meters high. That's big, even by today's standards. This palace then became a bastion for the refugees of the dwindling Roman Empire. Taking a stroll down the narrow streets, one can easily see the levels of fear and fortification that went into repelling the Slavs, Ottoman/Turks, Venetians, Austrians . . . archways bricked off and streets suddenly terminated. You really do get a great cross section of human habitation.All of this combines to make a fascinating and rustic travel experience of meandering, slick limestone corridors and beautiful piazzas flanked by crumbling Roman columns. The dark corners that may have housed some sandal maker now boasts 25 flavors of ice cream and designer swim wear.
Croatia probably conjures up a big blank slate to most Americans. Before my arrival to the UK, I was only aware of its recent history in the civil war that engulfed the Balkan region between the early 1990's (Croatia's war of independence took place between 1991-1995). It really is a shame that this pearl of the Adriatic has not garnered more attention in the states. . . I suppose Greece has eclipsed it's historical achievements. Croatia is littered with beautiful islands (1185 to be exact) throughout its coastline . The Italians discovered its hidden treasures in the mid 1970's and have influenced the western Europeans to follow en mass. The scenery is breathtaking, the Adriatic warm and clean, the people honest and friendly and the food is fresh from the sea.
The ferry is the undisputed heavyweight workhorse of Croatia. Locals and tourists rely on these massive ships to take them to and from home and work. There seems to be two distinct queues and times for departure: one for the baggage laden tourists who show up 30 minutes prior to departure and one for the last-minute locals. They seem happy to cut right in and exchange a laugh and back slap with the ticket agent. Not my country, not my culture. There were plenty of seats for everyone and soon we were on the hydrofoil steaming ahead for the distant island of Vis.Safety procedure seems tertiary at best for the Croatian ferry service. Luggage is kept in the aisles, blocking emergency exits and fluid movement. No announcements were ever made and the best you could hope for is that the emergency exit diagram was in English and accurately represented your actual boat and section (about a 50/50 chance).
Vis is one of the most remote and wild islands Croatia has to offer. Arid, mountainous, dotted with old stone walls that used to harbor olive trees, it now serves as a idyllic outpost for the sun worshipers. Our pale bodies reveled in the turquoise shores and warm breeze. Croatia is curiously devoid of sand on most beaches. Perhaps it is the lack of strong currents or just an availability issue after the Bosnian War's demand for sandbags? Sandals are worn into the water and every stall sells padded mats that are used instead of a towel. After a brief swim in the crystalline waters, I soon realized why the sandals are so often worn. Sea Urchins. The little black clusters appeared everywhere. Fortunately for us, they were the docile type of sea urchin and they pretty much left us alone.
Next was the exotic island of Hvar. Where Vis catered to the sailboat crowd who reveled in isolation, Hvar attracts the glamorous elite who can afford to know nothing about boating, cooking or cleaning. Everything was more expensive and done up. That being said, the layout of Hvar town was enchanting. The waterfront was the scene here. The eye is easily distracted by the large and ostentatious boats, fancy jewelery shops and mighty citadel perched atop the mountain. Our beach of choice was a short taxi boat ride out to the outer islands that boasted quiet coves, short pine forests and a large shaded umbrella. Interestingly, we would climb into the taxi boat, and motor out there, only to hear the engine idle and have the driver collect the taxi fare 3/4 of the way to our destination. This must cut down the haggle factor quite a bit. On the island, we devoured our books, swam and sizzled in the sun all at comfortable intervals.
When the last rays of sunlight are swallowed up by the Adriatic, Hvar Town comes alive like some nocturnal creature. The young and hip spill out onto the stone streets and dance the night away. Music pours out from one night club to the next with throngs of thirsty tourists indulging themselves in affordable excess. On one particular night, there was a Goliath-like boat that dominated the harbor and soon sparked rumours of George Clooney or P.Diddy.Sadly, the truth was never revealed and we had to settle with a beautiful harbor town that has been fishing and trading for many hundreds of years. Another return trip from the beach had the entire square covered in exotic cars like Ferrari Enzo's and Porsche 911 Turbos . . .it seems they had some kind of Gumball race going on and Hvar was the finish line. One driver fired up the Enzo and revved it L-O-U-D!
Our last destination was by far the most enchanting city of the trip. Dubrovnik is a remarkably intact and contained city. Its fantastic walls have kept the history and culture protected for hundreds of years. The city is literally pushed right to the edge of the tall sea cliffs and runs up and down the natural contours of the coastal rocks. No cars are allowed withing the old city's walls. Walking is the only option here with stone steps running all over the place. There are only two ways into this walled city, and each gate swallows in hundreds of camera wielding tour groups. The high walls and narrow alleys serve to channel the throngs of people in a frustrating human river of sunblock and fanny packs. One local we befriended told us of the nightmare day when 9 cruise ships were docked at one time in Dubrovnik. We saw the affect that one ship had on the old walled town and were aghast at what she described. I shutter at the thought of having to view those people's photographs of the city, lots of heads obscuring every snapshot.
Contemporary history tested Dubrovnik's fortifications and its people's resolve during the Balkan War. In 1991, the Serbs laid siege to the city and lobbed over 2,000 artillery shells at this majestic place. The old city took quite a pounding. The walls held, and so did the will of the people. The Serbs were driven back after 8 months and the city was restored in a very professional and careful manor. The roofing tiles had to be replaced with newer, brighter versions. The ancient limestone that lined the walls and buildings also had to be replaced. The original quarries gave out long ago to contribute to structures like the Washington Monument ect. . . so the replacement stone bares a slightly new hue. This subtle contrast of colors seems fitting, like a scar to remind people of the recent past. War crimes tribunals are still going on in Bosnia / Hercegovina, Croatia and Serbia. One famous Croatian generals face was posted everywhere with the words, "herjo" below it. This icon of national pride was accused of killing many innocent Serbs and had to take flight. What kind of Hero has to run and hide from his own country?
The amount of languages spoken here is simply astounding. The polyglot waiters and restaurant owners were constantly trolling for customers using very specific bait. While the potential prey is still a few meters away, the experts cast a glance at the clothes, shoes, faces, body language and reel them in with the correct language (English, Italian, French, German, Polish). We never saw an incorrect guess. Historically, this city has been well established and as a result, welcomed many different kinds of people. Its location was crucial to most of the trade routes making their way from Venice onward to Greece, the Atlantic and the Black Sea. Among other things, Dubrovnik boasts one of the oldest Pharmacies and Synagogues in Europe.
We discovered a cafe that braved the elements outside the city walls facing the Adriatic. Stone steps wind down the cliff side to offer up refreshing drinks with fantastic views. We discovered the stairs meandered down further to the shore. The placid waters invite even the most timid swimmer. Looking back up all you can see is sheer rock melding into massive stone walls and then the big blue sky. The cliffs offered wonderful jumping stations and the locals and tourists reveled in the adrenaline fueled leap into the salty blue water. I was impressed by a group of little local girls leaping off the rocks again and again at heights of 2
5 feet. With the aid of some liquid courage, a hot sun and the fact that a 10 year old girl had just leaped from the same spot 15 times, I took the plunge. Once in the water, it was as if one were transported to another world. The cliffs tumble into the water and just drop off into the abyss beneath the surface. Countless schools of fish swam beneath the city walls with sublime rays of sunlight cutting through the water like it was a precious sapphire. I kept expecting David Attenborough's voice to suddenly start in about some unique needle fish found only in these tranquil waters. After swimming around the cliffs a bit and fighting the current, I reluctantly climbed back to shore and made the ascent back into the heart of the city one last time.
Croatia is a fantastic country offering a variety of beauty and charm. The people are very proud of what has become of their nation. Tourism keeps these islands busy and profitable. They are very keen on maintaining this harmony. Our interpretation of the Croatian culture comes across as working hard some of the time to ensure full enjoyment of the leisure time. This strategy pays off with happy people and a healthy outlook on life. We even managed to capture one local attempting to mix the work and leisure formula with limited success.A few extra photos for your enjoyment:
